Antonio Berardi
I saw the first look which was a dark tailored mac and I automatically had a picture in my head that the model was naked or had something a little bit naughty on underneath. I kind of had a feeling that this collection was going to be a bit raunchy. As the next couple of looks came out I pretty much guessed right, figure hugging in all the right places, clothes tailored to perfection. Pussy bow blouses made out of black sheer and dresses made purely of black lace and velvet. A lot of the collection looks like it’s been made for a sexy secretary, I love it.
Ashish
I'm a bit of a magpie and I LOVEZ shiny shiny things so Ashish and me go together pretty well. His collections are so wonderfully tacky. I just love the fact that he uses so many sequins its brilliant how you kind of know what to expect from his collections (bright colours, sequins and print) but he reinvents his style over and over. I am absolutely in love with this collection, gone is the fun feeling that he gave with his summer and spring tourist themed collection. This collection is quite grungy and androgynous with tweed blazers and cardigans thrown over dresses (the layering in this collection is just too cool.) I have to say the sequined lumberjack shirts are absolutely genius. I think this could be my favourite Ashish collection to date there is not one outfit i would not wear.
Burberry
I’ve always been a fan of Christopher Bailey's work at Burberry but he has exceeded himself with is S/S 2010 and A/W 2010 collections (I also give him major kudos for showing in London for the second season running.) Although his summer collection was his best to date period this doesn't fall far behind. I love the grungy military feel of this collection the juxtapositions between the feminine gathered dresses teamed with bomber jackets and thigh high boots (A trend that seems to be staying strong for another winter.) He has managed to make the snakeskin thigh high booties not to look to drag and Ru-Paul, there were big fur coats that made the models look like teddy bears parading down the catwalk. The colours were warm autumnal colours, dark golds and browns that slowly progressed into purples and navy’s. This collection I think is all about making investments, there were a lot of key pieces that could be worn for years to come.
Christopher Kane
No he’s not on here because he “suddenly” become one of my favourite designers, just because he collaborated with Topshop or because he’s now getting major rep, I can honestly say I’ve loved Christopher Kane from the start. In my eyes this man can do no wrong I absolutely adore him and his designs. There is not one collection of his I do not like and this one is no disappointment. There were mini kilts and lace shirts with patterned collars(That reminds one of Prada’s A/W 08 collection mixed in with a little bit of Miu Miu’s S/S 10 collection with mismatched prints.) woollen shirts, blazers, leather, patent leather shorts and dresses had flower embroidery emblazoned of their surfaces. It was a good mixture sexy yet androgynous using materials like leather and sheer and then throwing on masculine blazers. There was still a sense of underwear as outerwear(not as strong as his last collection.) with the use of materials such as the sheer and tops with under wiring for the bust. I quite liked the fact the garments were all black it made it easier to appreciate the skill that had gone into the little details like the embellishment and embroidery. Big big loves for Chrissy Kane (L)
Erdem
Straight away just WOW. From the start the collection was stunning, Erdem one for favouring prints, the ones used in this collection were a beautiful selection from birds to ones that almost looked inspired by Monet’s water lily paintings or something. The outfits seem to be ones which could be worn casually as well as for an important event. There were patterned skirt suits (for the modern day Jackie O wannabe.) and structured panelled dresses and skirts, some had been worked into with stitching with gave a nice effect. It is one of the most stunning collections for Autumn and Winter, this collection is proof of why Erdem deserved to and won the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Award. I bet his loyal fans like Michelle Obama can’t wait to get their hands on this collection.
Hermione De Paula
Winner of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s One’s to watch Merit Award. I really like how quirky and experimental this collection is and love the prints used. I’m not so sure about some of the silhouettes used, but I like the concept of playing around with the shapes of the garments and disfiguring the body like the structured jacket with what looks like hip pads (It looks a little OTT with the shaping on the sleeves though...) Some of the garments had clear plastic on them one in particular was a clear bodice with black wiring that reminded me of Sonia Rykiel’s S/S 2010 collection with the clear plastic coat. I think Hermione De Paula is off to a good start in her designing career
House of Holland
This collection is when hoochie mama/hoodrat met high fashion (I mean this in the best way possible.) The main thing I love about Henry Holland is that his designs are so humorous whether they are his iconic fashion slogan T-shirts (so proud I can say I own one moohahaha >.<) or his runway collections yet they still remain high fashion, they genuinely put a smile on my face. The collections got a big eighties vibe with the big chains and the torn up bits of bandana’s. There’s pastel shirts with bandana print all over them teamed up with black leather vests (I like the fact he’s incorporated the bandana pattern onto knitwear it’s so HOH.) As well I thought there was a bit of an American high school feel to the collection with tops and jumpers having fleecy initials on them like American baseball or football jackets. Another fun yet desirable collection from the one and only Mr Holland.
Jenny Peckham
The girlie girl inside of me swoons when I look at Jenny Peckham’s collections there so glamorous and just drop dead gorgeous. She’s a designer who knows what a woman would want to wear (well at least to the Oscars or a major awards ceremony anyhow.) As ever there is lots of sparkle and floaty gowns that make me envy anyone who gets to wear one. Some of the garments had Japanese Obi styled belts which I thought was a nice and and unusual twist in the collection. I always wonder what it would look like if Peckham decided to do a real everyday ready to wear collection...
Louise Goldin
The first impression I got looking through this collection I thought it looked like it was made for a futuristic warrior woman with armour like tops and structured skirts and dresses. I love how asymmetric and sharp the lines are. The little disco cycle shorts underneath some of the garments and Goldin’s use of metalics and electric blue towards the end of her collection injected a bit of life and more interest into her collection, another interesting feature was the stitching that created patterns on her garments. I love how she’s reconstructed the shapes of some of her skirts and dresses and making them 3D, it was a risk that has paid off.
Mary Katrantzou
This is a woman who gets inspiration from old perfume bottles and jewellery so when I saw the “princess of prints” (yeah you be lovin’ that nickname.) new collection I thought it could have been inspired by the Queens crown jewels or a royal families jewels as it looked quite regal as there were prints of medals, jewels and pearls. I love how she incorporates jewellery into her outfits it's so Lanvin!! It was little details that really got me like the quilting of a skirt or sleeves. For someone who’s only done three seasons she’s causing a bit of a ruckus and her style is progressing and growing, its amazing to see the evolution between this collection and her first which was wonderful but this is defiantly my favourite collection so far.
